Labrador, part 1

A few kilometers after leaving Blanc-Sablon, we crossed over into Labrador, where we came into L’Anse-au-Clair and stopped at Gateway Labrador Visitor Centre. This building was once St. Andrew’s Anglican Church that celebrated its 100^th year (1919 – 2019). We received useful information about Expedition 51 (aka, Quebec Labrador Highway) from a kind young gentleman whose grandparents were married in this building back when it was the Anglican Church.

Moving on, we made a quick stop at the classically beautiful Point Amour Lighthouse (see photo). From there, we continued on to Red Bay, where we stopped at the Red Bay National Historic Site. While there, we chatted with the Park Service Staff, who told us about the tour on Saddle Island (a UNESCO site). They were kind and helpful; the finest group of Labradorians you could ever want to meet. We extend a tip of the hat to the boat captain who transported us to and from Saddle Island. Our tour guide on Saddle Island works within the medical field, but has taken her time this season to teach tourists like us the amazing story of the Basque history in Red Bay. Thank you all for your service to us and your community! This truly was a fun and informative stop along our journey. We thank them for the “trail magic”.

Next, we moved on to Mary’s Harbour, stopping for the night at a boondocking site near White Water Falls. There were four or five other campers at this site, but it was quiet, and we got a good night’s rest before moving on.

The next morning, we continued on the Labrador Highway until we detoured to drive out to St. Lewis on a long dusty road. It is a former radar site built and used only for a few years by the United States (History of St. Lewis, Labrador at Fox Harbour). After St. Lewis, we made a gas stop for UdaVAN and a lunch stop for us at Campbell’s Restaurant inPort Hope Simpson.

While traveling along the Highway, we made a decision not to take a detour to Cartwright, as it would have been 120 miles out and back on a dusty washboard road – UdaVAN was dirty enough from the drive out to St. Lewis. Instead, we pushed on to Happy Valley – Goose Bay and made camp for the next four days at Gosling Lake Campground.

During our stay at the campground, we visited the Visitor Information Center in Happy Valley, where the staff there gave us all the information we would need for our boat trip up the Labrador Coast coming up on Sunday. We then wandered over to Friendship Diner, which is located within the Labrador Friendship Center in Happy Valley. At the diner, “Sweet Baby James” served us a lovely French Toast and Bacon breakfast, prepared by a chef who knows how to make French Toast! After breakfast, we visited the security desk to get more information about the Labrador Friendship Center which services the Inuit Communities in Labrador. The gentleman we spoke with explained some of the services offered through this center and gave us a short history about the center itself. Like many of the people we have met so far in Labrador, this man has dedicated many decades to the service of his community (thank you, friend! We will keep you in our hearts).

Now it was time for chores: Laundry is a job we never look forward to, but on this trip, we have met some of the nicest people while performing this task. Oddly enough, our laundromat experiences always seem to include meeting people from Québec! This time, we met the most kind and generous woman from Québec who gave each of us a lovely piece of macrame art that we will cherish. We would like to thank her most kindly for these lovely pieces of “trail magic”. Joyous Vagaries wishes her a safe journey home.

NOTE: “trail magic” is an unexpected act of kindness or a serendipitous stroke of good luck experienced by a long-distance hiker or a person on a long journey.

NOTE: During our planning sessions for this trip in Labrador, we were mis-informed about the lack of cell service. Though it is true in a few places you will travel over 150 kilometers with no cell service, we found that every community we passed through (though there weren’t many) had some level of cell service. In addition, the Labrador Government has provided free WiFi at a few rest stops on the highway!! However, the real bonus came when we reached Happy Valley – Goose Bay and found the area to have a very strong 5G cell signal – insert happy dance here! Hence the reason we are able to submit this post.

Next up: a five-day round-trip journey along the Labrador Coast on the M/V Kamutik W. This includes stops in the Inuit communities of Rigolet, Makkovik, Postville, Hopedale, and Nain.

Travel often, stay safe, well, and joyous!